While I absolutely adored Copenhagen, I will admit that if you are there strictly for touristy and historical things you’ll get pretty bored within just a couple of days. So for those of you stuck there for more than 48 hours, this is for you!
An absolutely fantastic way to get out of the city is to spend a day visiting two of Denmark’s most famous castles: Frederiksborg and Kronborg. I chose to start at Frederkisborg because it was further away, then make my way over to Kronborg before heading back to my AirBnB. (Though in hindsight I think I would recommend doing the opposite; more on that later.)
Frederiksborg is located in an adorable little town named Hillerød, which is a little over an hour away from Copenhagen Central Station. The train station was under construction while I was there so getting my bearings was a little rough at first, but I believe ordinarily it’s really easy to find your way to Frederiksborg because there are literally signs everywhere.
After walking for about five minutes or so, you finally see the green copper spires of the magnificent castle off in the distance. Don’t rush to get there though! To get there, you take a beautiful stroll along the water and I truly believe that this lends to the magic of Hillerød. If you keep your eyes open, you may even find a small dock like the one below to stop and take in the scenery.
Pro Tip: Bring your coffee and a pastry with you and have your breakfast here as you watch the morning sun glisten on the water.
There were so many things about Frederiksborg that absolutely took my breath away. For one, it is breathtakingly beautiful. Everything about this castle is covered in exquisite detail, from the arches when you first enter the property to the figures at the top of the spires. Even the detail of the rooms inside are insane, from the floors to the ceilings! The second thing that probably blew my mind the most was how open and welcoming it was. Now when I say that, I don’t mean it had a cozy feel to it. I legitimately mean that it was mostly open to the public.
I was in Versailles, France a few years ago and I remember you had to buy a ticket to go into the palace, but you also had to buy a ticket just to see the grounds. A little insane? Yes. But understandable for such a big tourist attraction? I guess.
Frederiksborg is not like that. They want the public to come enjoy the grounds! They are massive and immaculately kept, but they are also free to enjoy. I saw a group of older women going for their daily stroll, a little boy learning how to ride his bike, and a group of teenagers having a picnic. It was incredible! This sense of inclusivity and just being neighborly is truly what defines the Danish people.
You do, unfortunately, have to pay to see the inside of the castle. (Although it is included with your Copenhagen Card if you chose to purchase one.) You can choose to go at your own pace, or you can join one of the guided tours. I personally would recommend the guided tour. You don’t see every single room, but you definitely learn a lot of things you wouldn’t have otherwise. It’s also really interesting to hear why the tour guides prefer certain rooms over others.
My tour guide was incredible, and I am ashamed to say that I don’t remember her name because she truly was a wealth of information. Below are some of the most fascinating things I learned:
Frederiksborg is was actually purchased and restored by the Carlsberg Foundation (much like a lot of the tourist things in Copenhagen). So, when you drink a Carlsberg, you are contributing to the maintenance of this beautiful place!
The beautiful fountain you first see when you enter the gates is actually a replica. The original was stolen by Sweden, broken into individual sculptures, & can now be found throughout Stockholm.
On the ceiling of the king’s audience room, where he would receive guests, you will see four paintings that reflect the four corners of the world.
The story of the king that lived here & his wife is actually fascinating to me because it kind of reminds me of Anne Boleyn. The king wanted a mistress, but that wasn’t good enough for the girl’s mother & she insisted that he marry her. He fell deeply in love with her…but it was rumored she was having an affair with someone else. She eventually left him & the king had a monument placed somewhere on the grounds in memory of his lost love. Truly heartbreaking.
There are portraits of all members of the royal family, but the one I found most interesting was of the late Prince Henry because it depicts three different stages of his life. (Although apparently I liked it so much that I forgot to take a picture of it…so here’s a picture of the queen instead…whoops.)
And finally, the national bird of Denmark is the swan (though it used to be the pelican). The picture below is probably my favorite picture that I took throughout this whole trip….but a kind gentleman riding his bike gently informed me that the swan was a fake. Upon closer inspection…he was right. Whatever. It’s still pretty.
From Hillerød, the train to Helsingør is about a half hour or so and then Kronborg Castle is about 15 minute walk from the station. Helsingør is a bustling seaport that sits across the sound from Sweden. Do me a favor & allow yourself plenty of time to explore this little town. I had myself on a pretty strict schedule but had I known this place offered more than just Kronborg I wouldn’t have allowed myself to get so carried away with Frederiksborg.
Kronborg is most famous for the role it played in Shakespeare’s Hamlet. It is also one of the only castles in the Copenhagen area that is actually the original and not a remake after it had burned down multiple times.
Now here is where I tell you why I personally think you should visit Kronborg before Frederiksborg:
After seeing all the grandeur that is Frederiksborg, Kronborg is just kind of…meh. Now I will say that they are from two different eras so of course they are totally different styles, but Kronborg is just so bare and dark and cold. It’s also surrounded by a huge wall (which makes sense because the king needed to protect the castle from Swedish attacks) but it just doesn’t give you the same fairytale feeling that you get at Frederiksborg.
I’m not entirely sure if Kronborg offers tours (I would guess yes) but I do know that entrance is included with the Copenhagen Card. I got there about two hours before closing so I had to rush a bit (like I said, I got a little carried away at Frederiksborg…) but the exhibits are very clearly marked & the woman I got the ticket from told me the best order to view them in because some things, like the tower, close sooner than others. Having this tidbit of information helped a ton!
My favorite part of Kronborg was definitely the walk along the ocean later. I wasn’t expecting to get any “beach” time on this trip, so it was definitely a welcomed surprise.
I think if I ever bring Mark back to Copenhagen I would go back to Kronborg and try to do a tour (and I think my thoughts on returning to Frederiksborg are pretty obvious…)
Overall, this was probably one of my favorite days in Denmark. But I also grew up assuming that I was a princess in disguise so…
(For a castle closer to Copenhagen, try visiting Christiansborg!)
What’s your favorite castle that you’ve found on your travels??? I need to add them to my never-ending list!