DISCLAIMERS: Vagarious Wanderer contains affiliate links, meaning if you make a purchase through these links, I may earn a commission at no extra cost to you.
Some experiences I had in Riga, Latvia were hosted by the Riga Tourism Development Bureau (LiveRiga) as they were the hosts of WITS Riga. However, all opinions are my own and I do not receive any kind of compensation for any tours I may recommend in this post. Any tours hosted by LiveRiga will be clearly called out.
Where are the Baltics?
Those of you that follow me on social media may have noticed that I was in Latvia back in November for the first ever European Women in Travel Summit. When I decided to attend and told friends and family, they all for some bizarre reason assumed that I was going to Africa…I am here to tell you that Latvia and Africa are about as far apart as they can possibly be. So where are the Baltics and what are they?
The Baltic States are comprised of three countries: Estonia, Latvia, and Lithuania. They all share a border with the eastern shore of the Baltic Sea and are next to Russia.
All countries share a remarkably similar history as they were under Russian Empire, Soviet, and Nazi Germany rule around the same time. But, despite having such a similar history, all three countries are extremely different and even speak completely different languages.
Traveling the Baltics
Unlike most of Western Europe, regional trains are not as readily available. While each capital city has a relatively extensive public transportation system complete with trains and buses, you will be hard pressed to find a train that will take you directly from one country to the next.
But don’t let that discourage you! There are plenty of reliable buses that will take you to your next destination. Whether you are taking a bus Riga to Tallinn, or Vilnius to Riga, you should not have a problem and you will be on the bus for less than 5 hours.
If buses aren’t your thing and you’re not too keen on driving a car, you can always fly! AirBaltic is an excellent budget airline (though they technically consider themselves a “hybrid airline”) serving the Baltics that prides themselves on the steps they are taking to reduce their carbon footprint. Because my time had been limited, I went for this option and would highly recommend them (though they can be extremely strict with their baggage weight polices; don’t say I didn’t warn you…)
All three Baltic capitals are extremely walkable, and the more residential parts of the cities have pretty reliable bus and train/tram systems. Unfortunately Uber and Lyft have not reached the Baltics yet, but if you are looking for a rideshare in the Baltics I would recommend Bolt. It works the exact same way as Uber and Lyft, but, for transparency, of the 8 rides I took only one driver spoke English.
Speaking the Language
As I mentioned above, unfortunately none of the three Baltic States share a language, and unlike the Latin languages they’re not very similar nor are they very easy to learn. If you are set on trying to learn a language I would probably recommend Russian as there are a decent amount of people in each country that speak it.
*I will say though that I learned how to say hello and thank you in Latvian and Estonian and it was very much appreciated by the locals…but then I panicked when they tried to continue our conversation in their language…
Lonely Planet has a great pocket phrasebook that includes a plethora of phrases for all three countries. I found it extremely helpful, especially when trying to communicate with my Bolt drivers. You can find it here.
How Long to Spend in Each Country
This is truly all dependent on what you want to see most. I would say spending 2-3 days in each country is enough to get a taste of what they have to offer.
Disclaimer: I did not go to Vilnius, Lithuania as I opted for Helsinki, Finland instead, so all of the information on what to do in Vilnius is based on research and information from friends. The Baltic State capitals from largest to smallest go Riga, Vilnius, Tallinn. If you are trying to decide which city to spend three days in instead of two I would probably lean towards Riga (even though I adored Tallinn).
All three cities have an Old Town that is great to explore, but there are great day trip options from Riga. (Or, you can always do what I did and spend a third day in Tallinn to do a day trip to Helsinki.)
Tallinn, Estonia
Currency: Euro
Language: Estonian
First up on our itinerary is my personal favorite Baltic city: Tallinn, Estonia.
Visiting Tallinn is truly like going back in time. Never in my life have I experienced history so well preserved without being gimmicky. The people you see in Old Town dressed up in traditional medieval attire don’t seem like miserable teenagers that can’t wait to get off work, and having a meal at Three Dragons is authentic to the point that if you visit at night you have to eat by candlelight. This isn’t your King Richard’s Fair that happens once a year, this is the real deal with people who are truly proud of their roots.
What to see in Tallinn
Walking tour
If you read my Copenhagen itinerary then you know how much I love free walking tours! I truly don’t think there is any better way to get to know a city than by going on a tour with a local (or long term expat). Plus, it’s a “free” walking tour so it is easy on the budget! (For those not familiar with free walking tours, the deal is that at the end of the tour you tip your guide with whatever you think the tour was worth. Or, if you’re poor, you can tip with the change rattling around in your pockets.) Not only do these free tours give you a great way of the land, the tour guides can give you some great tips of places to go that you wouldn’t normally find in a guidebook. Tallinn walking tours are held daily at noon and leave from the Tallinn Tourist Information Center. During the high season (April-September) they also have tours at 10am and 3pm.
Old Town
Tallinn, Riga, and Vilnius all have an area in the city called “Old Town” and they are all unique and different from the others. However, they do share a couple similarities: all three cities date back to medieval times and have been named UNESCO World Heritage Sites.
Tallinn’s Old Town is the smallest of the three and was my personal favorite. The best way into Old Town is to enter through the wonderfully preserved city gates. If you follow the walls you will find incredible little alleyways that house some of the sweetest little shops! I was incredibly early for the free walking tour so as I wandered around aimlessly, I stumbled upon this incredible chocolate shop called Pierre Chocolaterie and sipped the smoothest, richest hot chocolate I’ve ever had at an outdoor table. If I remember correctly it was inspired by Morocco, but if you have ever seen The Wizard of Oz, it reminds me of the fortune teller’s carriage. If you can find it, I highly recommend stopping in!
3 Dragons (or III Draakon)
This was hands down the coolest, and most delicious, meal I had in Tallinn. 3 Dragons is a little tavern inside the old Town Hall and it completely transports you back to medieval times. The menu contains things such as elk meat stew (which is what I had) and “pies”. Your meal will probably be the cheapest you find in all the Baltics, but it is sure to be delicious! If you opt for the elk stew, expect to sip directly from the bowl…which is most likely chipped…because they don’t have spoons. Brace yourself for the gruffness of the “Tavern Frump” and if you are there at night, don’t expect any lighting other than basic candle light.
A word of advice: it is also recommended to pay in small bills or coins. I believe they may accept credit cards, but I didn’t bother risking it after getting yelled at by the Tavern Frump for trying to close the door…when it was freezing cold outside…
Raeapteek
Raeapteek is the oldest continuously operating pharmacy in Europe. While they currently sell the average modern medications like advil and cough medicine, you can still see some of the old things they used to use on display in the back, including preserved snakes in a jar. Kind of gross, kind of weird…but definitely worth seeing as I don’t know anywhere else in the world that you can experience something like it. It doesn’t cost anything to go inside and if you are there during the colder months it is a fun way to get warm.
Kadriorg Palace
Kadriorg Palace is a stunning baroque-style palace built for Catherine I in 1718. With gardens, statues, and fountains, it is sure to remind you of Versaille! If you would like to go inside you will find a beautiful art museum. Despite it being pretty high up on my list of things to see, I unfortunately did not have a chance to make it to Kadriorg Palace, but I highly recommend that if you are in Tallinn for more than a day to make it over!
Knitwear
Estonia (and a lot of other countries in the area) is extremely well known for its knitwear. You can find stalls throughout the city with people peddling “Estonian-made” sweaters, scarves, and hats. They’re great to look at, but you’ll notice that they all seem to sell the exact same things…like identical sweaters. If you would like to buy one from a vendor beware that they do not all accept credit cards and the sweaters can be a bit pricey. However, if you want a truly incredible quality knitted item, I would recommend two places (unfortunately I do not know the names of either of them):
The first place is a tiny artisan shop in the basement of a building along St Catherine’s Passage. Not only can you find truly handmade knit products here, but you can also find artisan wood and leather pieces as well.
The second place is a bit easier to find. If you go to the street behind the old pharmacy you will find a place simply called “Brewery”. After you stop in for some meh beer, go outside and next door is a shop that sells some really nice knitwear. It is a bit more mass-produced than the artisan shop, but significantly higher quality than the stuff you find at the street vendors.
Coffee in Tallinn
Tallinn has a sneaky incredible coffee scene! I would venture to guess that this is due to their close proximity to Finland, but it was super exciting for me! My personal favorite was ROST Bakery, which is inspired by all things Scandinavia, complete with cardamom buns. It is a bit of a walk from Old Town, but totally worth it and is in a pretty cool artsy area complete with museums and beer halls.
Toompea Hill Viewpoints
While there are a few different places in Tallinn to get great views of the city, I am biased to the Toompea viewpoints. Why am I biased? Because all the towers were closed when I was there due to inclement weather. C’est la vie.
Old Town is broken up into two parts: Upper Town (Toompea) and Lower Town. Historically, Toompea is where all the wealthy merchants lived while the peasants lived in Lower Town, but the best views are definitely in Toompea. I believe the viewing platform I went to is officially called the Patkuli Viewing Platform and the views are truly incredible. The other popular one is called the Kohtuotsa Viewing Platform and is more instagram-famous thanks to its wall that says “The Times we had.”
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
As you walk around Tallinn, you will notice that there is almost no indication that the Russians ever occupied the city…until you reach the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. For some reason this is the only remaining piece of Russian architecture in the city, but it is absolutely stunning and something you should definitely see!
St Mary’s Cathedral
Okay, okay…so the guidebooks all technically say St. Mary’s Cathedral has the best view of the city. This may or may not be true…I wouldn’t know because despite me arriving at 2:30PM when the tower didn’t close until 4PM, they still decided to close it at 2PM that day. Bummer. I believe it costs about 5 euros to climb the tower. If it is closed when you get there too, it is still pretty cool to go inside where you can see various coats of arms hung on the walls.
Town Hall Square
As I’m sure you can imagine, Town Hall Square is essentially the center of Tallin’s Old Town. This is a great starting point, making most things on this list extremely accessible and relatively easy to find. Despite being such a popular tourist destination, it was surprisingly empty and if you wait a minute or two you can easily get pictures with no one else in it.
The Three Sisters
Okay, so there is really only one reason why I am including the Three Sisters on here, and that is because Riga has a hilarious response to them. (Read the section on Riga to see exactly what it is.) Originally built in 1362 as merchant houses, Three Sisters is currently home to a 5-star hotel. It makes a pretty cool picture, but other than that I really don’t understand much of the hype.
Kiek in de Kok (the tower with cannon balls lodged into it)
I’ll be honest…part of my reason for including this is simply because of the hilarious name. This tower actually holds some pretty heavy historical significance. This tower stands above hidden underground tunnels, where the secret prison cell holding Catherine the Great was. You can also see cannon balls lodged into the walls of the tower from attacks by Ivan the Terrible! Inside the tower you can find a museum highlighting the history of war and artillery in Estonia.
Try some Vana Tallinn
A popular liquor in Estonia is made right in Tallinn and is called Vana Tallinn. It is a sweet liquor that I personally think is best served in coffee. There is also a creamy version that I was told is like “poor man’s Baileys”.
Beer House
By heading to Beer House, you have another opportunity to step back in time while sipping on some delicious beer. This surprisingly massive beer hall is designed to look just like a traditional Austrian beer house. All of the beers are Bavarian, unfiltered, and unpasteurized. I can also say that they are truly incredible beers and some of the best I had on my entire trip! You can stay downstairs for a casual beer and bar bites or head upstairs for more of a restaurant type experience.
Also, if you get the cheese balls, they will warn you that they are spicy…they are not spicy, but they are delicious and you should totally get them.
Once you’ve had your fill of medieval history, it’s time to hop on your first bus and head to Riga! This bus ride should take you about four and a half hours.
Booking.comRiga, Latvia
Currency: Euro
Language: Latvian (though many people also speak Russian)
Things to do in Riga, Latvia
Riga Free Walking Tour
Okay…I’ll be honest…my experience with the Riga Free Walking Tour was actually the worst free walking tour I have been on. My guide was an expat from Australia who actually seemed to resent Latvia for a lot of things and threw in a lot of jabs at the country. He was pretty rude and when another woman on the tour asked for directions to a place that I knew from experience is pretty hard to get to, he just pointed and said “walk in that direction, find the underground tunnel, and you’ll eventually find it”. This was all super disappointing to me, but I would still recommend going because a couple friends I made that live in Latvia raved about it! (Just maybe stay away from it on Tuesdays…) The tour starts at 10AM from St Peter’s Church, lasts about two hours, and covers Riga’s Old Town. If you see someone standing with a yellow suitcase then you’re at the right place!
If you are still up for more, another tour leaves immediately after and is called the Alternative Riga Free Walking Tour. This tour takes you through places like Central Riga and the Moscow district. I actually really wanted to do this tour, but because my guide was so awful I ended up making a friend and spending the rest of the day with her.
Try the Latvian version of garlic bread
This seems ridiculous, I know, but I seriously became addicted to this stuff! It is rye bread fried with garlic. Sounds basic, but it is truly heavenly and the perfect bar snack! I was so addicted that when I went out with friends on my last night I said I didn’t care where we went or what we did as long as I could get one more serving of that scrumdiddlyumptious-ness.
Beer tour (Hosted)
I had three experiences hosted by LiveRiga, and my absolute favorite that I cannot recommend enough is the Beer District Tour. Like the rest of the world, Riga has been hit with craft beer fever and they are doing a pretty great job at keeping up with the rest of the world! This is a 4 hour walking tour, and you will have the opportunity to taste 12 beers at 4 or 5 different locations. This sounds like a lot, but snacks are included! (Including that drool-worthy garlic bread I mentioned!) For 38 euro, you definitely get your money’s worth while tasting some pretty unique and delicious beer. Stay tuned for a full post on this incredible tour in the coming weeks! In the meantime, you can book your own tour here (I do not make any commission from this).
Foodie tour (Hosted)
LiveRiga also hosted a food tour where we explored the Central Market and had a small tasting at a restaurant called 3 Pavaru Restaurant. While this particular tour is not available to the public, there are plenty of other food tours in the city that I would encourage you to try! We tried some pretty unique things in the market, like white chocolate with hemp seeds and various pickled items, that I would not have otherwise thought to try and it was all delicious! One tour that looks pretty good is this one by EAT Riga. (No commission from this one either.)
Three Brothers
Remember how I mentioned earlier that Riga has a response to Tallinn’s Three Sisters? Well this is it! The Three Brothers are the oldest “dwelling houses” in all of Riga, and legend claims that they were each built by three different men of the same family (though there is no way to know if this is actually true). The first was built in 1490, the second in 1646, and the third sometime later that same century.
Explore Old Town
Riga’s Old Town is quite a bit different than Tallinn’s. There seemed to be no space left uninhabited and the streets seem to be significantly more narrow. One interesting thing I learned about Riga’s Old Town while on my free walking tour was that it is actually used as the set for a lot of big movies because it is significantly cheaper than other European cities like London. (Any Sherlock Holmes fans out there?) As he put it: “Old Town Riga looks pretty unremarkably like any other stereotypical old European city.” I personally think that statement was rude, but I’ve already told you my thoughts on my tour guide…
Eat at a Soviet-era cafeteria-style restaurant
Under Soviet occupation, life was pretty dull. Food wasn’t meant to be delicate or spectacular in flavor, it was meant to fill you up for cheap after a grueling day of work. Enter: cafeteria-style dining. There are still quite a few of these around Riga, such as Lido Vērmanītis, and I highly recommend them. While meals in Riga won’t exactly break the bank compared to their Western European counterparts, I don’t think you can get a cheaper or more filling meal than at one of these establishments. Not only will you get a full meal for less than $10, but it is actually pretty delicious!
Admire the Art Nouveau
You can’t go to Riga without seeing the beautiful art nouveau. Want to know how to see it? Look up! While you really won’t see any in Old Town, you can easily walk to the Art Nouveau District or see it sprinkled throughout Central Riga. The Free Walking Tour company also does Art Nouveau District tours during the high season.
Central Market
As one of the largest markets in Europe, it is no surprise that Riga’s Central Market also made UNESCO’s World Heritage list. The Central Market sits along a river and is mostly housed inside old air hangars, with some stalls outside as well. Each area is clearly broken up into a specific type of good sold, whether it is produce, fish, or meat, and you can find both locals and tourists alike browsing the stalls and purchasing Latvian grown goods. Even if you do not plan on doing any cooking of your own, I would recommend stopping by the market to have a meal at one of their newer stands where you can find anything from traditional baltic fare to sushi.
One thing I loved about the Central Market is that it is extremely clear where the produce is from. All produce stands had signs on each item indicating whether it came from Latvia, Poland, Lithuania, or somewhere else entirely. The transparency was a breath of fresh air compared to what I am used to in the States.
Traditional Latvian sauna experience
Some people love going to the spa while on vacation, other people think it is a waste to spend time inside doing something you can do at home. I personally fall somewhere in between, depending on the length of my trip, who I’m with, and the intent of the trip (for example, I loved the spa day Mark and I had on our honeymoon in Hawaii). That being said, I truly think everyone should have a traditional sauna experience when in Latvia.
Latvians take the rituals involved in their sauna culture very seriously. At a traditional sauna, you should expect to start in a hot wet sauna, where you will essentially be spanked with birch leaves by the “spa master” (it sounds terrifying, but is actually surprisingly therapeutic). After experiencing the heat, it is time for the cold pool. The drastic change is said to be good for circulation. I can say with almost full certainty that your local spa doesn’t do anything quite like this, so for a truly traditional Latvian experience you should give it a try!
See the most stunning views of the city from Skyline Bar
If you take the elevator of the Radisson Blu Latvija Conference & Spa Hotel to the 26th floor, you will be graced with incredible views of the city on your ascent. Once you enter the Skyline Bar, you will be able to experience panoramic views of Riga. The drinks up there in the heavens are pricey, even by US standards, but if you’re not in the mood to be bougie you can still take pictures and walk around without buying anything.
Hot tip for the ladies: I personally think the best views are actually from the women’s bathroom. It seems bizarre, I know, but trust me on this one!
Latvian National Museum of Art
The Latvian National Museum of Art is one of the most beautiful buildings in Riga, day or night. The museum spans across two floors and houses over 50,000 pieces of art. It also has a free app that will guide you through the museum in Latvian, Russian, or English. If museums are your thing, send this straight to the top of your list of things to do in Riga.
Try Riga Black Balsam
Latvians love their Riga Black Balsam. If you go to Riga and you don’t try Black Balsam, then you haven’t actually been to Riga. Sorry.
I personally love Black Balsam and I’m kind of sad that I only brought one bottle home with me, but I am a rarity amongst my other fellow WITS attendees. Why, you ask? Because the first time I had it I tried it hot, at the suggestion of a new, local friend; everyone else tried to do it as a shot or like an aperitif that you can sip. Can you do this? Yes, of course. Will you enjoy it? Only if you like to casually sip on cough medicine…
So what is Black Balsam? It is an herbal bitter liqueur that has been made with the same secret recipe for well over 200 years. No kidding. There’s really no true way to describe the taste (other than quite reminiscent of cough medicine when had as a shot) so you’ll just have to try it. Supposedly it can cure any illness. While this may or may not be true, I can personally vouch for it healing colds significantly faster than hot tea with whiskey, honey, and lemon. I’m actually somewhat convinced that the only reason I didn’t get sick on my whirlwind of a trip is because of how much hot balsam I ended up drinking.
Day trip to Jurmala (Hosted)
If you have some time to spare, I highly recommend taking a trip out to Jurmala, Riga’s seaside town. I spent a day in Jurmala on a spa day hosted by LiveRiga and was charmed by the wooden houses that resembled none of the architecture I had become accustomed to in Riga. In the summer, you can find wealthy Russians indulging in glamorous seaside resorts. It is also a wonderful outdoor break in the cooler months when you get the woodlands and coastline practically all to yourself.
If you happen to be traveling the Baltics in November, partake in Independence Day and Lacplesis Day activities
While I was unfortunately not in Riga for their Independence Day, I was fortunate enough to experience Lacplesis Day, also known as Freedom Fighters Memorial Day. November 11 is a day that marks Latvia’s victory over the Western Russian Army and is dedicated to those that fought for Latvia’s freedom. On this day, Latvians flock to Riga Castle and there are red and white candles as far as the eye can see. The candles line the castle walls, the rail along the river, and form intricate designs along the ground. Latvians can be seen in circles singing various traditional Latvian songs and there is normally an outdoor concert as well.
Seeing the incredible pride and reverence in the eyes of the people in attendance brought me to tears for the first time on my trip. I truly have never seen anything like it and cannot recommend attending at least once yourself enough.
Now for your final bus trip of your time in the Baltic States! The bus ride from Riga to Vilnius should take about four hours.
Booking.comVilnius, Lithuania
Currency: Euro
Language: Lithuanian
What to do in Vilnius
Free Walking Tour
I can’t deviate from my pattern here, so of course you should explore Vilnius by trying out their free walking tour. The tours leave daily from Cathedral Square at 10:30am and lasts about two and a half hours. You can find out more here.
Old Town
Just like the other Old Towns you have visited so far, Vilnius’s Old Town is a UNESCO World Heritage site. While this particular Old Town is not considered as impressive as Tallinn or Riga’s, it is the only Old Town in which you can view some pretty incredible baroque architecture.
Gates of Dawn
Of the original five city gates, the Gates of Dawn is the only remaining gate. Here you will find a beautiful shrine to the Virgin Mary that you can easily see from the outside instead of having to go into the sanctuary.
Museum of Genocide Victims
Formerly the headquarters of both the Gestapo and the KGB, this museum will probably be the darkest thing you experience while traveling the Baltics, but I do think it is something that should be seen. Lithuania spent many, many years occupied by various terrible entities and experience a lot of death, but the victims of genocide deserve to be remembered. Here you can learn about the history of genocide in Lithuania while seeing the old prison cells and torture chambers used by the KGB, who did not leave Lithuania until 1991…
Three Crosses Hill
According to legend, seven monks were crucified on this hill in the 17th century and a memorial was later built in their honor. There have been quite a few different memorials placed here over the years, but at one point Stalin demanded that the memorial be taken down. The three white crosses that you see standing today were built in 1989 and are meant to symbolize both hope and mourning. You can also get incredible views of Vilnius from this hill.
Uzupis
Uzupis is a neighborhood in Vilnius that reminds me a lot of both Christiania in Copenhagen and Brooklyn, New York. Formerly one of the poorest areas of the city, Uzupis is now a thriving bohemian district. Uzupis has its own constitution and president, which is very similar to Christiania. Here you can find plenty of street art, artisan shops, and smaller cafes.
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Brittany says
I’m really looking forward to the day I can return to this part of Europe. Especially to visit Lithuania and complete the Baltic trio!